Driving in Italy as a tourist: all you need to know for a safe and stress-free trip

Practical tips for driving in Italy without losing your zen! What to expect on Italian road, how to avoid fines, what to look for when renting a car in Italy. Updated in December 2024

Driving in Italy worries many.

Several parts of Italy are best visited by car; however, stories of temperamental drivers, small streets and what feels like random fines are popular among visitors so, it is more than understandable why you may be a little bit wary about getting behind the wheel on Italian roads.

But how dangerous is it to drive in Italy? Is it safe to rent a car in Italy and go on a road trip or are the stories about crazy Italian drivers true?

Today, I am going to tackle all this, separate myth from reality and will give you all I believe you need to make an informed decision and know what to expect and how to tackle driving in Italy.

Why you can trust what I say? It’s a valid question! I am Italian, I have been driving in Italy for many years and got my driving license in Italy, which meant I had to learn the Italian rules of the road in depth (it’s a pretty thorough exam!).

I also spend large parts of my life in Ireland so I know very well how daunting it is to drive on the other side of the road and how different the driving style is.

Last but not least, I have driven extensively in the US and Canada, so I know what I am comparing Italian driving with and some of the fears that come from drivers from there.

So basically, I truly believe I can really help you with your Italian driving!

On this page, we’ll look at:

• Do you need to drive in Italy? If so, where?
• The basic rules of the road that may differ from back home (side of the road, overtaking, turning on red etc)
• Important danger signals you need to know (such as use of hazard lights in case of queue)
• Considerations about how crazy (or not) Italian drivers actually are
• Information on Italian roads, speed limits etc
• Documents you need to drive
• Car seats for kids

Spoiler: Driving in Italy is very different from driving in, let’s say, the US; however, it is definitely doable and most likely a lot less insane than stories on the web may suggest. Get these tips first, though!

Top tip: if you are planning on renting a car, you may also find helpful >>>our guide about renting a car in Italy.

Please note: this post contains affiliate links (one, to a car rental provider). Should you make a booking through them, we might make a small commission.

Do you need to drive in Italy?

Before we dive into how to drive in Italy, let’s look at how necessary or unnecessary it is.

In general, you will not need to drive in Italy if you want to stick to the main cities, visit Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast.

Rome, Venice, Florence and Milan are all well connected with high-speed trains and an extensive network of local trains will allow you to visit areas in their vicinity, including Cinque Terre, Verona, parts of Lake Garda

Parts of the Dolomites, limited parts of Lake Como, limited parts of Puglia are also manageable by train, for short periods of time, but come into their own if you have your own car.

I do not recommend to drive in Campania (Naples / Amalfi Coast are) for driving style and traffic; I also do not recommend to drive in Cinque Terre (traffic and parking issued) and do not recommend driving in big cities.

To visit the Amalfi Coast you can rely on a combination of train and ferry (in summer) and train and bus (in winter). I do not recommend driving here.

Other parts of Italy such as the Val d’Orcia or most of Tuscany, Sicily, Piedmont and most of the the south of Italy and the islands do require the car.

you can also find handy >>> how to get around Italy: areas overview to help you choose the best transport.

What are Italian roads like?

In Italy, you will find yourself driving on roads falling into the following categories:

Autostrade – Autostrade are the Italian highways/motorways and they are toll roads.

They are usually named with the letter A followed by a number and the signals along them have white writing on green background.

Autostrade are well paved, well kept and have regular emergency points in case of breakdowns and gas stations.

As you access them, you find a tall booth dispensing tickets with your point of entry (automated machine).

Slow down, take the ticket and kept it with you.

Need to know: do not store your ticket close to your mobile phone! It will demagnetize it, and lose the info about your entry point (yes, this happened to us! This is how I know!). If that happens, the person at the exit booth is usually able to find out the entry point by your registration plate but not always. The best way to keep your ticket is on the back of the sunshade, which usually has a little pocket for it.

When exiting at your destination, you will use the machine provided to pay the relevant fees.

As you approach a motorway booth, you will see signs helping you get in the right lane.

I always go to the manned one as I like to deal with a human!

Usually, both cards and cash are accepted and there are lanes for ‘Telepass’ (electronic toll collection system).

Good to know: often card machines want a pin and do not operate contactless. If you do not have a pin, have cash on you or go to the manned booth.

Telepass is usually not included in car rental contracts so do not use the reserved lanes assuming you have it: unless you are told specifically you do, you do not!

Driving on autostrade is pretty straightforward.

Usually, Italian autostrade they are smaller than American Freeways and have 2, 3 o 4 lanes; they are open to cars, vans and trucks (no mopeds and slow vehicles).

Driving on Italian motorways is not significantly different than driving on a highway or freeway back home.

The speed limit on Italian autostrada is 110Km/h.

Read here >>> our complete guide to using Italian toll roads.

Strade Statali is the name of Italy’s national roads. Thea re usually named SS followed by a number.

So, if you see SS1, you know you are on Strada Statale 1.

Roads falling into this category come in all shapes and sizes and vary from large and straight roads to bendy and narrow ones.

The speed limit on national roads is 90Km/h.

However, different speed limits may apply in case of bends and specific geographic/ weather conditions – always check local signage.

Strade provinciali are Italy’s local roads and go from large, well-kept roads to country lanes.

You do not usually find yourself driving off-road in Italy. However, you may find yourself on dust roads if going to country restaurants or if you are staying in agriturismo.

In these cases, you do not usually need special vehicles, just be prepared to get the car a little dusty!

The speed limit on smaller roads is 50Km/h-70Km/h depending on the road in question – check local signage.

Italian road sign by color

The main colors you may want to familiarize in Italy when it comes to road signs are:

• GREEN: motorways (usually with toll)
• BLUE: extra-urban roads
• WHITE: Local roads
• BROWN: scenic roads, places of cultural interest

Italian speed limits by road

Speed limits depend on the type of road you are on.

The table below gives the general rule however, always follow local speed limit signage as it is common for some roads or part of them to demand a lower limit.

Trust local signage over your GPS system! The GPS is often wrong!

In Italy, follow the following road signals priority, in case of conflicting info:

• The traffic officer, if present, trumps anything else
• Traffic lights / temporary light signals
• Vertical signals (those you see on the side of the road)
• Horizontal signals ( the writing on the road surface)

For reference, here is the Italian speed limit chart

Type of road	Code	Standard speed limit
Autostrada (highway/freeway/Motorway)	A	130 Km/h (110 in case of rain/bad weather)
Main non-urban road (often a Strada Statale)	SS	110 Km/m (90 in case of rain/bad weather)
Secondary non-urban road (often Strada Provinciale)	SP	90 Km/h (80 in case of rain/bad weather)
Urban road (inhabited center)		50 Km/h

Good to know! Inside towns and urban center, the speed limit goes as low as 30 km/h, often enforced by Autovelox, the camera catching speeding drivers. In doubt, when there are houses around you, slow down!

Italian speed limit signs and checks

Italian speed limit signs are round, with a red circle and a black number inside, which is the top speed accepted.

They may or may not come with the words controllo electronico della velocita’ which means electronic speed limit checks are in place.

How much leeway there is depends on the road, as this is a percentage of the maximum speed allowed.

To be safe, always stay within the limit or no more than 5% over.

Speed limits are enforced more than the speed of some drivers may suggest! Speed in Italy is checked in several ways:

Autovelox: these are machines at the side of the road that take a photo of your registration plate should you pass them at a speed above the legal one.

They are usually marked and locals learn about them: do not be surprised if you see fast cars suddenly slowing down and then going fast again: chances are that are slowing down to be at the right speed on the Autovelox spot!

Autostrada Safety Tutor: this is a newer system that registers your car plate as you go from point A to point B and gauges your average speed, can see if you have lights on or off etc.

These systems mean that there is a check on speed even if you do not see the traffic police on the side of the road.

Trucks and lorries on Italian roads

Trucks and lorries are very common on Italian autostrade, they are huge, often fast, and can make for stressful driving.

Always pay extra attention when there are several on the road and when entering the motorway if there is one incoming: try let them go first.

Lorries tend to only be on the road during the week: traveling at the weekend may give you more holidaymakers traffic but often means there are no trucks to deal with.

Driving in Italian cities

Driving in Italian cities requires a paragraph of its own as this is where things often get complicated!

Italian cities are not car-friendly and my general advice is: once you are in a town to city, ditch the car and walk instead!

The reasons why I recommend you don’t drive in Italian cities are:

Large cities are terribly trafficked. I am from Rome and I can tell you from experience if you find yourself on the ring road at the wrong time, you can easily spend hours there without moving an inch.

Parking in large cities is very hard to find and, in many cities, absolutely wild, with cars left pretty much anywhere at any time, including on pavements (do not copy the locals, fines are steep and yes, they will reach you back home too!)

Italian towns big and small have inner-city areas that are closed to non-resident traffic. These are called ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) and in theory, they are well indicated with signs telling you what areas are off-limits. In practice, this is not always the case.

In many cases, you only see the signs for ZTL if you know you have to look for them: do not expect barriers or very visible markings between the car-free area and the rest of the town.

When you hear horror stories of people getting a huge fine from Italy once they are back home, this is usually where the fine originated from! Accidentally driving into a poorly signaled ZTL and yes, as bad as the signage may have been, the fine is due.

Main rules of the road you need to know to drive in Italy

• You must be 18 to drive in Italy legally (regardless of rules back home).
• A standard license allows to drive cars for up to 9 people including the driver. Above that, you need a different license.
• In Italy, we drive on the right side of the road. Priority is given to those coming from the RIGHT.
• We overtake on the left only. If overtaking is allowed, the marking in the middle of the road is an intermittent white line. A solid white line means no overtaking.
• Turning right on a red light is NOT allowed.
• Headlights must be on even in daylight on extra-urban roads
• Use of seatbelts is compulsory on front and back seats
• Car seats are mandatory for kids up to age 12 / 150cm height.
• An anti abandonment kit is mandatory if traveling with a child under 4
• You need a valid driving license on you at all times. If not from the EU, there is a high chance you also need an International Drivin Permit as well as your license (not instead!)
• You need a hazard triangle sign in the car – this is compulsory and must be on all vehicles
• You need a high-vis jacket any time you leave the car to place your hazard triangle so, in practice, this means you want one IN THE CAR (not in the trunk) at all times.
• Use of hazard lights: in Italy, we use hazard lights to signal a significant slowing down in traffic speed as well as a breakdown. This is important to know and can save your life! If suddenly there is a queue that forces cars to slow down, we use the hazard lights to let the car behind us know. This means you know that there is something happening ahead and you should NOT overtake and should instead slow down yourself. We do not use hazard lights to say ‘thank you’ for letting another car go first. Hazard lights in Italy are always a sign of attention needed ahead.

Understanding directions in Italy

Italian roads are not marked north / south pr east /west like you may find in the US or the UK (southbound, northbound).

Instead, we use the final destination. So for instance if you enter a motorway, you will see it marked as ‘Milano – Napoli’, which are the two extreme points on it.

This is often cause of confusion: big cities can be easy to learn but smaller ones you may well not be familiar with 9I had a terrible time in Tuscany last summer tryong to figure out if I needed to follow Arezzo or Grosseto! And I know them! Imagine if I didn’t!)

The best way to know where to do in Italy is use use a driving app.

Using driving apps in Italy

I use google maps to for navigation in Italy and I find it to be the best.

it is superior to the GPS that comes with car rentals and i have fond it way more accurate than many equivalent apps.

However, google maps is not the gospel!

Often, it does not read ZTLs and it can lead you down a disused road: always double-check local signs and if a road seems too weird to be real, it may well be!

I recommend you also have a paper map on you – get an updated Touring Club one with a good level of detailing and you’re covered.

Parking in Italy

In Italy, parking areas are marked by blue signs with a white P on them. Parking can be free (rarely) or paid (commonly).

A as general rule:

BLUE lines are paid parking areas. Look for the pay and display machine and make sure you get the ticket for the time you need: put it well visible inside the car, beside the wheel, so it can be easily checked.

YELLOW lines are usually spaces for disabled: never, ever park here if you are not a disabled permit holder for that area (if you need one, you can usually arrange it with the town municipality ahead of time)

WHITE lines are free parking.

Occasionally, you find parking that is free but timed. In that case, you can use the disk (if it comes with the car, many have it) or just use pen and paper to mark your time of arrival and day.

Place your note on the dashboard so it is well visible.

You an find here >>> my essential guide to parking in Italy

How are Italian drivers? Are they as bad as they say?

Italian drivers get often described as ‘lawless’ or ‘crazy’.

However, I find the best way to describe is: impatient.

Compared with many other countries, you will find Italians VERY ready to use the car horn and do whatever it takes to pass you if you commit the unforgivable sin of taking your time to understand what way to go.

This is particularly common in some areas such as the Naples / Salerno stretch which is notorious for being very intense in terms of driving style (I myself do not love to drive there, although I do if I must) and feel different, driving wise, than most of the rest of the country.

The best way to deal with Italian drivers beeping at you is: ignore us.

Stay safe, take your time and don’t mind us.

Rules of the road do apply in Italy and Italian drivers are on average very very good.

Do not believe those that say ‘Italians don’t follow road rules / they take traffic laws as suggestions only / they don’t care about their kids and thrown them in with no car seats’ – I hear this all the time and believe me it is not only offensive, it is plain wrong and a huge generalization.

We are not timid drivers but in the vast majority of cases we do follow the rules, we are just very assertive when it comes to taking our space on the road.

Those who do not are the exception, they just happen to be those people remember the most, as they can be scary. But we are by all means not all like that!

Italy is not a crazy car-filled far west, even if the beeping sometimes makes it feel that way!

Italy has a large number of cars on the road and this of course means there are drivers of all types, including very fast, very impatient ones.

So if you are used to quiet and empty nature road, it feels intense. But if you are used to city driving, Italy will be a piece of cake!

Tips for driving in Italy: what you can do to stay safe and sane

When getting ready to drive in Italy, make sure you:

Have the right documents

The documents needed to drive in Italy depend on the country you are from.

Check with your local embassy/consulate if you need an international license and, if entering Italy with your own car, what type of insurance documents may be needed.

You can find an example of what is needed if you are a US driver here

Whether you are driving your own car or a rental, make sure you have all the car documents handy in the glove compartment.

In case of a check, you will be asked for ‘patente’ (driving licence), ‘libretto’ (car documents) and/or car rental docs.

Police road checks are common: don’t worry, just show the documents and you’ll be back on your way in no time.

Get the right car

The right car for Italy is the one you can drive with confidence: no special model is best, nor needed.

If you use an automatic car at home and are not familiar with a driving stick, opt for an automatic car in Italy too, you do not need the extra stress.

Automatic cars have become more and more common in Italy and are now easy to find: however, they are not the default so make sure you specify at the time of booking.

In Italy, electric cars are becoming more common too.

However, they are not always easy to recharge so I highly recommend checking charger availability at your accommodation if opting for an electric one.

Don’t always go for the biggest possible model available. Parking large cars can be tricky in smaller centers: evaluate carefully how big a car you actually need.

Car rental Tip! When we rent, we use DiscoverCars to help up find and book the best car for us. On their website, you can select model, transmission and even select providers who offer car seats, if you’re traveling with kids. You find these and more option on their menu on the left hand side of a home desktop and you just click all the filter options relevant to you.

Get a car seat for the kids

If visiting Italy with kids, make sure you get a car seat for them, read facing for babies and young kids and a booster seat once height/age allows.

Check, double-check and triple check the age appropriateness of the seat if getting it via your car rental agency as often you are offered booster seats even after agreeing on a baby capsule.

Car seats in Italy must meet certain standards which may differ from those you use back home. For instance, EU approved car seats, which are required in Italy, do not allow for a chest strap, as they need to have a one-click open system.

If you are considering bringing your own seat, so you have control over quality and size. I recommend you familiarize with Italian car seat rules so you can make an informed decision.

Find here >>> our guide to using car seats in Italy for kids

Watch out for ZTL

I have already warned you about the sneaky ZTLs but it is worth repeating.

ZTL means Zona a Traffico Limitato (Zone of Limited Traffic) aka areas of town that are only accessible by permit holders.

ZTL areas can be marked by electronic signs with an easy-to-understand traffic light system or they may only me marked by a sign that says ZTL.

Italian towns and cities have limited access city centers and it is safe to assume you cannot drive in there, sign or no sign.

Good to know: entering a ZTL without a permit results in a guaranteed fine that will follow you home. This is one of those instances in which the Italian administration is incredibly effective! Therefore it is best to do all you can to avoid a fine and, in case you get one, pay quickly as it will keep increasing! ZTL fines apply on entering the area.

The best way to avoid ZTLs is to know about them and watch out

When approaching a new town, keep an eye out for signs indicating parking (big Ps on blue or white background).

They usually become more and more frequent as you approach the ztl – they are a good way to know when you are getting close!

Have cash for parking

Bigger parking lots accept cards. However, pay and display machines and smaller lots often do not. Always keep some coins handy.

In some localities, you have scratch and display parking tickets that you buy at the local tabaccaio or newsagents.

If you are staying in accommodation inside a town center, tell them you have a car as they may be able to give you a pass to enter the ZTL (or recommend where to park).

Do not leave valuables in the car

It is very tempting to leave bags and coats in the car however, I highly recommend you do not do this in Italy (or anywhere, really!).

If you need to leave your car full of luggage, make sure you have everything hidden in the trunk and back into your parking space so you know the trunk cannot be accessed.

In most cases, this will mean you are being overly cautious (my Irish husband always thinks I am mad when I do so).

However, it is a simple precaution that can save you lots of time, money and headaches.

Never leave anything valuable visible in the car.

Get both a gps and a paper map

Street signs in Italy can be very confusing and a gps is your best friend. However, don’t follow it blindly!

I had google maps getting straight into a ditch one too many times for me to trust it blindly so my tip is: when getting ready for driving in Italy, get gps but also have an up-to-date paper map as backup!

React quickly to green lights

You know the Italian drivers’ temperament I mentioned above?

A quick way to have it flare up is to be slow at the light when it turns green. In most of Italy, you will get angry beeps if you are less than ready when the light changes: get in gear and ready to go in time to avoid being shouted at!

Pick the right gas

Cars in Italy use petrol ‘senza piombo’ (unleaded petrol) or diesel.

Pumps clearly mark which is which but, if you are from the US, you may need to pay extra attention as the colors tend to be different than back in the States.

This is something I noticed the other way round when we were in the US and I found it rather confusing so I feel it makes sense to let you know, should you find the same while in Italy!

Pumps in Italy are assisted (with staff) or automatic. Cards are accepted in most: Visa more commonly than Amex.

Do not drink and drive. Do not use your phone while driving.

This probably goes without saying but: do not drink and drive.

If you want to go out for dinner and have more than a taste wine or if you are going wine tasting, make sure you get a designated driver, private driver or organized transport. The legal alcohol limit to dive in Italy must not go above 0.5g/l

The same goes for use of mobile phones: only focus on the road. For safety (and to avoid heavy fines)

Useful vocabulary to drive in Italy

• Macchina – car
• Pneumatico – tyre
• Stazione di servizio – gas station / petrol pump
• Autostrada – toll road
• Casello – autostrada toll booth
• Pedaggio – toll
• Telepass (at autostrada toll booth): highway card – most likely something you do not have, unless agreed with the rental agency beforehand
• Controllo electronic della velocita’ – electronic speed control
• ‘In caso di pioggia’ In case of rain (on speed limit signs)
• Disco orario – time disk (for parking)
• Patente – driving licence
• Libretto – car documents (the common sentence you hear from the traffic police is ‘patente e libretto’ which means they want driving licence and all car documents
• precedenza – priority
• Passo carrabile – access gate, do not park
• Autogrill – one of the names of gas stations
• ZTL – Zona traffic limitato (permit holders only)

In case of car accident

In case of accidents:

If the accident doesn’t involve you but causes traffic delays or queues, slow down and activate your hazard lights so the car behind you can also slow down

If you have car trouble and need to stop on the road or, ideally, on the side of the road in the emergency lane, first wear your high vis jacket, then leave the car and place the triangle sign so other cars can see you. The triangle must be placed about 50 meters from your car, so it is well visible by oncoming traffic and they can avoid driving into you.

The main emergency number in Italy is 112. If you need an ambulance the number is 118.

Always ask your car rental company what number to call in case of accident or problems.

I hope you found these tips for driving in Italy useful. Please don’t forget to also find other tips for Italy travel here, covering accommodation, culture, transport and more!

Essential tips for driving in Italy – pin this!

This post was written 18 March 2021 and has now been fully updated.