Radicofani: why and how to visit the ancient Rocca of Italy’s Robin Hood
All you need to know to plan a visit to Radicofani, a pretty Italian hilltop village in Tuscany famous for being the home of Italy’s Robin Hood.
Radicofani is a scenic village in Tuscany, central Italy.
Perched on top of a high hill in Val d’Orcia, Radicofani has a stunning medieval fortress with sweeping views over the countryside, a delightful ancient piazza and it is also famous for being the home of Italy’s Robin Hood!
Visiting Radicofani is easy and pleasant.
You can see the village in one afternoon or use it as a lovely base to discover the area.
We visited Radicofani for the first time with our children and friends.
Adults and kids loved it and the meal we had in the pretty piazza was one of the highlights of our family vacation in Tuscany.
In this travel guide, you find all you need to know to plan a visit to Radicofani.
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Where is Radicofani and how to get there
Radicofani is a small hilltop village in Val d’Orcia, in Southern Tuscany.
The easiest way to reach Radicofani is by private car and the closest towns are Montepulciano, Montalcino, Pienza, San Quirico d’Orcia and Chianciano Terme.
Bagni San Filippo, Monte Amiata, San Casciano dei Bagni and Corsignano are attractions nearby.
Siena is 70Km away.
The best exits from the Rome-Milan motorway are Chiusi-Chianciano and Fabro; you can also reach the town following SS2 Cassia from Rome or Siena, turning off at the sign for ‘Traversa Amiata’.
The closest airports to Radicofani are:
- Aeroporto di Roma Fiumicino Airport FCO (215 Km)
- Aeroporto di Firenze Airport (167 Km)
- Aeroporto di Pisa Airport (248 Km)
There is no train into Radicofani: the closest station is Chiusi-Chianciano: you will need a private car from there.
The road to Radicofani climbs up the hill with large mountain hairpins but it is well kept and wide.
If you are worried about driving yourself, have a look here >>> at our tips for driving in Italy
Why visit Radicofani
I recommend you visit Radicofani for several reasons:
The views from the hilltop fortress are fantastic: this is an incredible photo spot in Tuscany!
The history of the ‘Italian Robin Hood’ is fun and something especially kids may enjoy
The old Radicofani piazza is one of the prettiest in Italy
Art lovers will enjoy the Della Robbia masterpieces in town and the beautiful wooden statues in the main church
This small town has a fantastic village feel and it is less swamped by tourism than many others in the area.
Love small towns? Do not forget to also check out our selection of the most beautiful small towns in Tuscany!
What to see in Radicofani
Radicofani is compact but packs quite a punch in terms of things to see.
The Radicofani Fortress
The main landmark in Radicofani is the tall medieval fortress towering above the village.
Perched at the very top of the hill, you can see it from miles away and, conversely, offers sweeping views over the surrounding countryside.
This dominant position meant Radicofani controlled this stretch of the Via Francigena, a spot that made the town at the center of the war between Siena and Florence, who fought extensively for its control.
The fortress dated from 973AD and, over the centuries, saw many powers fighting for its control.
Siena, Orvieto and Rome all wanted to control this excellent vantage point: this put Radicofani at the center of many battles and local wars.
An interesting moment in the history of the fortress is the year 1297 when a man named Ghino di Tacco made the fortress his base, which we share at the end of this article.
There are two main ways to reach Radicofani’s fortress:
By car: you can drive up to the fortress and park immediately below its outer walls.
On foot: from the center of the village, you can hike to the fortress following a mountain path.
The trail is well indicated and brings you to the fortress in about 15 minutes however, it is not well kept and rather steep.
While we enjoyed climbing up with our kids, it felt very much like an unkept backroad and more than once I doubted it would lead anywhere.
It did, in fact, arrive at the fortress however, I would recommend taking this path only if you have more ‘adventurous’ kids who will enjoy a bit of a workout.
I do not recommend the trail to older visitors or if you are not wearing proper walking shoes.
If visiting with teens, the walk up can be a fun way to tackle this area.
Access to the fortress costs 4 euro and includes access to the tower, bastion walk and underground passages.
Piazzetta del Teatro, Radicofani’s picture perfect piazza
My favorite corner of Radicofani is the small Piazzetta del Teatro, a wonderful ancient piazza with typical stone houses and flowers.
The piazza is hidden at the center of a maze of small, pretty alleys and you can easily miss it if you don’t know it is there. We only found it by chance while looking for a shop and we were delighted when it opened up in front of us as a delightful surprise!
The square was in origin the center of the Jewish ghetto of Radicofani, a past you can still guess from the fact that it is also called PIazza Giudea and it is stunning.
The whole square is surrounded by stone houses with external staircases, balconies and flower vases and the center is now dressed with planters and wooden tables.
A local shop sells Tuscan specialties and cured boards, perfect for aperitivo in the piazza.
When we went, two local grandmothers were playing in and out of the house with their granddaughter, a scene that seemed out of an Italian movie more than reality but that was entirely authentic!
Radicofani’s small alleys
Radicofani is a small village with houses developing around small alleys of incredible charm.
The best way to explore them is by allowing yourself to get lost: follow Via della Piazzetta and Via dei Forni if you need a starting point but then trust your instinct and just go.
The town is so tiny, you won’t have difficulties finding your car again and you will find stunning hidden corners!
Radicofani’s churches
Radicofani has several churches that are worth seeing especially if you are an art lover. Worth seeing are:
Pieve di San Pietro, a Romanesque-Gothic church famous especially for work by Della Robbia
Chiesa di Sant’Agata, also home to Della Robbia’s artwork and famous for its original facade
Fantastic in the churches are the carved wooden statues of the Virgin, peculiar to this area and very different from sacred art and more famous and known sculptures in Italy, yet beautiful and evocative.
Bosco Isabella esoteric garden
Immediately outside the center of Radicofani, you find Bosco Isabella (Isabella’s Woods), an esoteric garden built at the end of the XIX century by the Luchini family.
Following the aesthetic and romantic influences of the era, the Luchini built a green area that was at the same time carefully designed yet wild and added esoteric elements such as a stone pyramid.
The area became a public garden in 1983 and it is now a good place for a walk in nature.
Other things to see in Radicofani
Posta Medicea – Renaissance building in typical Tuscan style, designed by architect Buontalenti in 1584
Palazzo Luchini – home to one of the most influential families in Radicofani, it is on the town’s main road and has a beautiful stone facade
Torre dell’Orologio – Radicofani’s clock tower and one of the town’s landmarks
Palazzo Pretorio – a historical building that served as the seat for Radicofani’s Capitano del Popolo and, later, as a prison
Radicofani’s fountains – you will find several in the village, still offering delicious drinking water to pilgrims and visitors. Worth noticing is the Fonte Medicea boasting the beautiful coat of arms of the Medici Family.
Where to eat in Radicofani
In Radicofani you find delicious Tuscan food in shops and restaurants.
Bistrot and Restaurants in Radicofani are:
Pane e Companatico – Piazzetta del Teatro – shop and Bistrot with cured meat, cheese, bread and charcuterie boards, with outdoor tables in the piazza. Casual perfect for lunch or aperitivo.
Ristorante Fortezza Di Radicofani – Via Della Fortezza, Radicofani: right on fortress’ grounds, this is a cafe, restaurant and also acts as ticket booth.
Ristorante La Grotta – Piazza Sant’Agata, Radicofani
Ristorante Trattoria Le Ginestre -Via Odoardo Luchini 18, Radicofani
Ristorante Pizzeria La Bottega Del Chiu’ – Via Renato Magi 1, Radicofani
Bar Enoteca Bruschetteria “Al Tocco” (cafe and wine bar) – Piazza San Pietro 2, Radicofani
Bar Enoteca “La Stella” (cafe / wine bar) – Via Roma 65, Radicofani
Where to stay in Radicofani
Radicofani is on the Via Francigena and therefore has a long history of hospitality.
You can stay in the village or in agriturismo/villa in its vicinity.
Some addresses you may like:
Albergo La Torre, good budget option, with simple yet nice rooms, with a balcony
La casa del viandante, lovely self-catering apartment with a patio in the center of Radicofani
Casa della Nonna, family-friendly option, simple yet comfortable apartment under Radicofani’s rock
Agriturismo Selvella, outside of the center, fantastic agriturismo with restaurant and pool
Visiting Radicofani with kids
We visited Radicofani with four children aged 7 to 14 and they all had a blast.
While there is not much in Radicofani for kids as such, several things kept them busy and entertained. What they enjoyed the most were:
The hike to the Fortress, easy for kids of school age and up (no strollers).
The path is poorly kept and steep enough to give the children a mild sense of adventure. You can hike up in about 15 minutes: walking shoes are a must.
The Fortress (Rocca di Radicofani)
Radicofani’s fortress has several tunnels, a prison and a very tall tower you can climb to the top of. Not suitable if you are afraid of heights but exciting for school-age kids!
The story of Ghino di Tacco
This is a very easy way to get them engaged in this fortress.
The info panels are not great but sufficient to give an idea of who Ghino di Tacco was and imagine how life must have been here at the time!
Tip for visiting Radicofani with a stroller: Radicofani has some steep roads but the town center is easy to visit with a stroller, especially if you have all-terrain wheels. I recommend you drive up to the fortress rather than walk as the road has no pavement and you are walking beside fast traffic. The trail is not stroller friendly and I do not recommend tackling it with a baby carrier either since it is too steep and poorly maintained.
Find here >>> all our tips for visiting Italy with kids
The interesting story of Ghino di Tacco, hero of Radicofani
Ghino di Tacco was a member of the Ghibellini nobility and, as such, arch-rival for the city of Siena, who supported the Guelph’s cause.
After the death of his family members by the hands of the Senese people, Ghino settled in Radicofani’s fortress and lived as a sort of ‘gentleman brigand’.
His figure quickly became legendary: Boccaccio mentions him in the Decameron as a ‘good brigand’ and even Dante makes space for a mention of the man in his Divine Comedy (Purgatory VI 14).
Ghino di Tacco is a legendary figure in Radiconfani and gained fame as a sort of Tuscan Robin Hood.
While he didn’t quite rob the rich to give to the poor, he is said to only have targeted the wealthiest of travelers and to have been a man of noble manners.
The town is still very proud of him as you can see from the piazza in his name: piazza Gino di Tacco!
I hope you enjoyed this overview of how and why to visit Radicofani and it inspired you to add this beautiful medieval village to your Tuscany itinerary. Safe travels!